Lara Presber

Photo by Noah Fallis

Much like many a modern woman, having one career is just not enough.

An architect before she was a designer, Lara Presber has found a way to weave the two together.

Her labels slogan, 'Inhabitable spaces inspiring wearable pieces', is all about using structures to inspire sustainability in her designs.

Photo by Noah Fallis

"I'm not crazy and make everything out of bamboo, but sustainability makes a lot of sense right now," said Presber.

Looking for inspiration for her Fall 2011 collection, she found out about the Vakko Design Center in  Turkey by taking a poll on Facebook.

"It's a building that's all about reuse," said Presber.

The Vakko Design Center was built on a tight timeline and not only incorporated an abandoned concrete structure, but the architect, Joshua Prince-Ramus, was also able to use plans that had been slated for project in California that was cancelled before construction.

Presber incorporated these ideas into her Fall 2011 collection by combining some of her archive patterns into the new designs, as well as working a few of the buildings structural elements into the clothing.

"I added a taffeta 'x' to some pieces to give the delicate silk greater structure," said Presber. "And the kaleidoscopic print was inspired by the mirrors in the main atrium."

Photo by Noah Fallis

The main theme between this collection and all she makes is the level of quality.

"It's kind of like how our grandparents lived,"said Presber. "You buy something because you want to wear it for ten years."

Her Fall 2011 collection is available here in Calgary at her flagship store, and just in time for the holidays to, with many nice cocktail dresses to spice up your season.

Chantel Traub

"I put a lot of hours and thought into each piece," said Chantel Traub. "I feel they deserve a name as well."

"It kinda gives the viewer, the wearer, a view into what the painting and image is about."

Traub's collections of silkscreened and hand-painted clothes are little pictures of her world in a wearable format.

"Lately when I've been making things, I'm kind of imagining I'm travelling in my own city."

"You experience a lot more when you're travelling to a new city," said Traub. "And it's kind of a surreal experience."

With one piece titled 'Marienkirche' after a church in Germany where her friends were married, and another 'Ohi'a Blossom', inspired by a family trip to Hawaii, every article has a story.

"'Skyline' is my pièce de résistance."

'Skyline' was Traub's grad piece that took her months to do, with about 15 yards of silk to hand-paint.

Photo by Danielle Smerek(?)

"It probably takes about three days, if I compacted everything," said Traub about the work that goes into each piece.

"One dress was over fifty hours, but it usually takes a couple days to paint and then a day to sew."

After talking through the process of how each piece is made, and the differences between screening and painting, Traub says she doesn't really mess up anymore. 

"I have silkscreening down to a science, I'm super clean when I do it."

Unless it's after 1 a.m. she adds. "That's when bad things happen, I don't go past that time."

A recent grad of ACAD, and majoring in fibre, she is about to start working on her third collection, Fall 2012. Keeping the details about her Fall 2012 quiet until it's ready to show, all Traub is saying is that she will start working from a new perspective.

Her first collection didn't really have any cohesiveness to it, but she was really happy with each piece.

"I was actually amazed at all the feedback I got after Parkshow."

"An editor from Avenue magazine was there and wrote about my Stephen Ave skirt, which really helped out a ton, media wise."

Already a big hit in Calgary, Traub has no worries she will keep designing.

As an after thought, she mentioned that only about 2 per cent of graduates of a fine art program succeed in their field.

"I'm going to be in that per cent."

Rabbit Boutique

Even though the Calgary art scene is starting to really evolve, emerging artists still have a tough time finding an affordable venue for their work.

Enter Rabbit Boutique. An online shop featuring Calgary's upcoming talent in the art and design world.

Photo by Cheri Chatterton

"We really look for work that isn't mass produced and that is made here in Alberta," said Su Ying Strang.

Strang started up the boutique with Cassandra Paul in late 2010, as a way to showcase talent in an affordable environment.

"Originally we had a plan to open up a store, but we've kind of back-tracked on it," said Paul. "Online is the way of the future."

With the store being in an online format, it gives shoppers flexibility as well as opening the market up to a global scale.

"One of our main goals is just introducing a lot of the fantastic local designers to the rest of the world," said Strang.

Both masterminds behind the boutique have firsthand experience in being freshly out of school and having trouble finding a place to showcase their work.

Strang and Paul both graduated from ACAD and majored in painting, which they also continue to do on the side, as well as having full time jobs just to keep the bills paid.

"I always thought I'd go for the money route not the passion route," said Paul. "But I went the poor route. The poor and happy route."

Currently showcasing a number of artists from jewellery designers to ceramic artisans, the ladies are always looking for new talent.

"When show and sale comes up at ACAD we always go and snoop around," said Strang.

Even though most of their talent base is from ACAD they have no biases, as they are looking at all local designers.

"We're looking for a really unique feel to the artist that represents them as well as our city."

"It's all about giving back to the community and the arts scene," said Paul. "I'd like all of them to become established and successful."

Not only do they represent a variety of skill, the site itself is a collaboration of what Calgary has to offer.

"We're currently looking for a photographer for the fall look-book."

Constantly dealing with new people for photography, it gives an opportunity for the photographer to grow their portfolio as well as maybe dabble in a style they haven't tried before.

At the end of the day, they're just looking to help others like themselves get their foot in the door, and have a great time doing it.

"Calgary is just an exciting place to be right now," said Strang.

MaNoKin Design

"I don't do drama."

Unusual for a designer, especially of women's clothing, Marsina King likes to keep things low-key.

After a show in June and a pop-up shop in July, King is ready to slow down with events for the rest of summer, having just the Jumble Boogie Sample Sale on August 13 left on the promotion schedule.

"The pop-up shop put me a little behind, but I'm ready to get working on the next collection."

Photo by Shaun Robinson

This will be the third collection in under two years that MaNoKin Design has put out.

Started last October, and after a first collection that was a little bit all over, according to King, she's really starting to find her stride.

"The first collection wasn't really my style," commented King, looking forward to the next one, Spring/Summer 2012.

With each collection, her focus on the target demographic, and the vision she's aiming for is becoming a lot stronger and more pronounced in her designs.

"The next collection is going to be smaller with only ten or fifteen looks," said King. "Really functional pieces that can be intermingled."

Taking inspiration from anything and everything, King still goes with the philosophy that 'design is everywhere' which she picked up while attending Ryerson and it seemed to stick with her.

Right now the Fall/Winter 2011 collection is just making it's way online for pre-orders.

Straying away from my usual posts...

Sitting here in Amsterdam, listening to rave music at 10:30 a.m., and it is a good day.

I just want to make some updates about things I've seen over here in Europe. In particular. Clothes.

In all reality, there's not a lot of difference. I still see a lot of the same stuff at home, but I see a lot more of it over here.

A few key differences in every day dressing, are nice shoes. Particularly in Italy and France, and the big difference being on men. Running shoes seem to only be for running. Unlike at home, where skater shoes or runners can be everyday. I... can't remember the last time I've seen a pair of skater shoes actually. Converse are still okay though. But they aren't tattered to bits.

Whatever is worn, needs to be presentable. Even punks, goths, or the such, look presentable. It's not ripped rags, it's well kept clothes that actually work together to form an outfit.

Pants do not drag on the ground. I have maybe seen two pairs of pants in my entire time over here that have been to long. And one of those has been mine. I'm terribly guilty of wearing pants that are too long, because I like to wear them with both heels and flats, or I'm just to lazy to hem them. When I was in Milan though, I did manage to buy two pairs of pants that I don't need to hem. It is amazing. This is why Zara is awesome.

Moving on. I'm not sure of the technical name of the pants, but to me they look a lot like MC Hammer, or Balloon pants. And my oh my do they look comfy. Everyone seems to have a pair. I want some, but I'm not that bold. I know once I get home and start wearing them around, I will be getting some funny looks. That and I've spent all my money on various other things anyway. :)

Jumpsuits! Or catsuits, whatever you call them. Onesies, are the way to go. It is a great idea in theory to, because it's an entire outfit in one piece. I support them. BUT, only if they fit. The best ones are the kind that are a little flowy and have a belted waist and balloon style pants that look like a dress. Those are my faves.

This is my input on trends. Owls are long past their expiry date, and I believe that parrots want to take their place. Jungle colours and prints are heavily in, and this is the bird to go with. I've seen it on a few pieces of Jewellery here and there. Gintox in Milan, a cute accessory store, had a lovely parrot necklace.

Maybe I've totally missed it already, and Parrots are in, but I think they are going to hit it big. And I think Peacocks are also going to be right there along with them. But Parrots will be the bigger deal. Just what I think. If this isn't true, I'll make it a trend anyway. :)

So one of my new favourite stores is Lollipops in Paris. Super cute accessories, I bought a lovely birthday gift for my sister there.

That's all I really have to say for now. Also, I'm a huge fan of wearing a scarf over my hair on rainy days or windy days, because it's just really easy. But that either makes me look Russian or Muslim. We're not sure yet.

Peace&Love
Chow

Just an FYI

Hey all,
I know I haven't been posting anything in awhile, but currently I'm out of the country.
Once I am back though, I hope to have qutie a few more stories up by the end of summer.
In the meantime, feel free to check out my other blog (oh yes, I have two) http://chalsiesmusings.blogspot.com/2011/05/back-in-germany-baby.html
to check out updates while I'm travelling throught Europe.
Should keep you occupied until I'm home again.

That is all darlings,
Peace&Love
Chow

Laura George

Graduating with a Bachelor of Design with Honors from Ryerson in 2009, and winning Bretton's designer of the year award for her graduate collection, Laura George is a must see at any Bridal Show.

"Personally I'm drawn more towards the warmer tones, more towards ivory for the collections," George says of her current collection that was shown at Alberta Fashion week in October of 2009.

Unlike the stark contrast of pure white, ivory or other off-whites, are easier for most women to wear.

The dresses of George's that hang in Naked Fashion Boutique, where she is manager, are all done in ivory and gold, and adorned with little flowers in both colours.

The flowers are inspired by Hungarian embroidery said George, who hand-makes all the little flowers, and plans to continue using them for her next collection, with pearl centers.

"I'm really looking forward to the next collection, it's inspired by Pride and Prejudice."

Using each of the ladies from the classic novel as an inspiration, her next collection will have dresses based upon the personalities of the girls.

"Kitty is so playful, and Lydia is flirty and fun," says George as she's flipping through her sketch book, each page showcasing a different character.

"Jane is sophisticated of course, and Elizabeth, she will be the showstopper."

George plans to have this collection out by September, and to continue having a new collection out every year or two.

Also doing a lot custom work, she is happy to be designing bridal dresses. "With these dresses I feel I get to be most creative."

Every wedding is such a big deal said George and she loves just being part of everyones experience.

For more information visit http://www.laurageorge.ca/

N.R.T Fashion's

"If I could dress anyone for a day it would be Marilyn Manson."

When it comes to fashion Nicole Rita Tomney doesn't have conventional in mind.

N.R.T. Fashion's is over two years old now and going strong, Tomney keeps herself busy doing all the designing and making of the clothes herself. And when that's just not enough to keep her going she has two jobs on the side.

Coming across as a whirlwind of excitement, N.R.T. Fashion's would be fine calling anywhere home, whether the line stays here or goes to some crazy city across the world.

Looking forward to going wherever fashion takes her, Tomney is infatuated with designing. "I just love the feeling of seeing amazing clothes and photos and love the fact that I get to show my stuff to other people."

Starting in the industry early as a model, sewing in high school helped her passion grow. Now with her own line a local hit, she appears to be on the right path.

While some Calgary designers prefer in keeping with the local ideals, Tomney would rather shake things up.

Designing apparel for women age 18 to 30 Tomney describes the line as fashion forward and for ladies "not afraid to wear something that's going to get peoples attention."

Dramatic changes from season to season show a boldness necessary to stay in such a turbulent industry.

Her collections are the best kind of unpredictable, stemming from a range of inspirations from icons to pictures. "Anything that catches my eye and gives me instant ideas for outfits."

N.R.T Fashion's will be showing in Toronto Fashion Week in April, for more information go to http://www.facebook.com/nrtfashions?sk=wall&closeTheater=1

Broken Doll Clothing

Not one for giving up Leah Bohnet, with Broken Doll Clothing, has big plans for the next year.

"In the fall I'm heading to Vancouver, to look for a wider market."

Currently in 13 stores across Canada she plans on making it into 10 more.

Bohnet first broke onto the fashion scene in 2005 and then came in with her own line in the fall of 2008.

Originally designing womens wear very much around herself and what she wanted, she wants to start designing for a more diverse crowd.

"I want all women to be able to wear it," said Bohnet, talking about branching out from the young look her previous collections have had.

Most of her collections focus around the fabric, some collections are baggier, some are all about draping, and most have a lot of dresses. In her fall 2011 collection the focus is shifting from dresses and it showcases quite a few chunkier sweaters to keep you cozy.

"I've really started to find my rhythm," said Bohnet.

After going really hard at first and then looking back at some of her earlier seasons and wondering what she was thinking, Bohnet's happy to have kept with it and not dropped out of the game like so many.

"I have great parents, if it wasn't for them I couldn't do it," said Bohnet. "It's nice to have a good support system."

A native Calgarian, she doesn't plan on leaving anytime soon, though knows there's obstacles with Calgary's fashion scene.

"I've always found that everyone likes malls here."

She points out that a possible reason we don't have the fashion scene that is in some of Canada's other big cities, is because of the way Calgary is built. "Calgary's not really made for boutique shopping and walking around."

Not put off by the thought of it, Bohnet knew what she was getting into when she started, and won't be doing anything else.

"I would rather do what I love and get by, than wait for the clock to end everyday."



for more info go to http://www.brokendollclothing.com

Colleen Pound, Fleur Feminine

It didn't seem to matter that Colleen Pound had the money or the means to buy nice clothes, she never could find what she was looking for.

Pound noticed that for women's clothing there was a serious gap in the market for size 12 and higher. Sure, there were clothes available for that size range, but nothing she wanted to wear, nothing that fit her demographic of a young, style-minded woman.

Pound's turning point came when she was seated beside one of Reitmans managers on an airplane. She told him that as one of his target markets, she would never buy the clothes they offered.

"I don't want to be flammable," said Pound, describing the small selection of fabrics, mostly polyester, available in those stores.

It was then that she decided to start her own line, one to fill the gap.

"I am my target market," said Pound.

Wearing a wool skirt that doesn't need special care and is part of her Love Collection, she proudly flaunts the quality.

Her Love Collection came out in the fall of 2009, consisting of approximately 18 pieces, the entire wardrobe won't even cost a full $5000.

"I have the coolest fabrics."

Full of flattering fits and luxurious fabrics the Love Collection can be mixed and matched to anyones liking.

Managers and others in the retail business would always argue with her that designing for that size range would be pointless.

Most women seem to be in a constant period of transition trying to get one or two sizes down and wouldn't bother investing in clothes they may not get a lot of use out of.

Pound says its not true, even if ladies are in the transition period, they still want to look the best they can at that time in their lives.

If they're not planning on changing they want to have clothes that flatter their curves and help them feel good just the way they are.

Another argument that some use to justify the gap is that it costs more for the use of fabric, and charging more for the sizes would continue to segregate them and cause a huge frenzy.

Pound has no issue debating the lack of logic here, because if you make apparel from a size one to a size ten there's still a difference in fabric use and the cost is the average.

She talks about how adding a few more sizes may raise the average price but it would also open up the market.

You can tell from the in-depth way Pound has thought everything through, she knows what she's doing.

She's going to wait a bit between collections though and look for a partner before she starts her next line. It's a lot of work and she would like someone who has the same vision for the label as she does.

She may not do all the manufacturing herself, but as her ideal market she knows exactly what she wants, and makes it happen.


more information @ http://www.fleur-f.com/ or http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fleur-Feminine/